Don’t quit, rest
Maybe I’m a glutton for punishment, but one of my all-time favorite pastimes is trying to bodysurf the waves on the beach in Mexico. I can’t simply “lay out” like a grown up and just enjoy the sun and the sound of the rolling waves. I have to get in there! It started when I was about nine years old, my parents bought a week at a timeshare on the beach and that became our summer vacation every year. We would get out there, right where the waves would crest and tread water. We’d laugh and scream for hours, excitedly awaiting the arrival of “The Big Kahuna” so we could catch it and ride it in. Sometimes we would catch in with the great pride of accomplishment, but most times, we’d just get washed up on the shore, with only half our swimsuits, hair tangled all over our faces and …
